Northstar: The Ethereal Clouds of SA PA

It was indeed way too long for me to write about this trip. But hand notes, pictures, facebook post helped me to collect the memories and write about this post. Slowly, when I decided to write about this, my brain started to collect all the information to the point that I can remember some important details. The trip was so memorable after all. I call it “The ETHEREAL clouds of SAPA’

Stranded in Hanoi

It was 6 am when I reached Nội Bài International airport in Hanoi. I felt terribly tired and sleepy after 6 hours stopped over in Kuala Lumpur. Since I was traveling with a tight budget, The only budget flight that I got from Bali to Hanoi was only with Air Asia which unfortunately offered a very long stop over. There was I waiting and sleeping at the super freezing KLCC. Good thing was a Vietnamese friend warned me to bring enough warm clothes as January known as cold and windy season in the North of Vietnam. I never imagined that I would use them earlier in the warm Kuala Lumpur and yet freezing airport.

Looking out to the distance

Anyways, I safely landed in Nội Bài International airport and found my way to the GA HANOI, the railway station in Hanoi to get the train ticket to Lao Chai. Struggling with the language, I found myself crammed in to the locals in front of a small counter where they sold the ticket to Lao Chai where I can continue my trip to SAPA. Perhaps because they mistakenly thought that I am a Vietnamese, they allowed me to queue to buy the ticket in that counter with a very reasonable local price. I wasn’t surprise to learn that there are different building where they sell train tickets for tourist which of course with different (higher) price. I considered myself lucky.

I paid for 560.000 DONG for a comfortable sleeper train. I was happy except that the train only started off by 8 pm. It means I would be stranded again for more than 12 hours. I asked my brain to quickly decide what to do when I was eventually free from the crowd. I checked my only map and found out the center for backpackers is not that far from the station that I could walk for less than 30 minutes. Off I went there and of course with some dramas of getting lost Instead of 30 minutes, it took me almost one hour to get to Hanoi’s Old Quarter where all bars, hotels, backpacker hostels are located. Quickly I screened hostels and backpacking guesthouse. I badly needed a shower and a space to just crushed on. Hanoi Backpackers hostel it is. With only 5 USD ( in 2013, could be more now), one bed on a 6 beds dorm was mine. My world was slowly getting better.

The town behind the mist

Paddy Rice Fields

Long story short, after recuperated from the hassle and stranding story, I reached SAPA the next morning. The ride with sleeper train was comfortable. I was surprise to found clean linens in my berth. I used the 10 hours ride from Hanoi to Lao Chai the nearest train station to SAPA with a beautiful sleep. I geared up myself as soon I stepped off from the train as the cold brutally slapped my face. I followed the crowed with backpacks assuming they would also travelling to SAPA which was a good decision I made. Together with the crowed, I hopped on a minivan to continue another 45 minutes road trip to town SAPA itself.

As far as I could see, it was only a mist. I narrowed my eyes, focusing at searching for the name of the hostels that I book from Jakarta. My hostel situated in a center of the town. With only 25 USD per night I could get a private room with all utilities that I needed including heater blanket.

After a few chit-chat with the owner of the hostel, it turned out I could change my reservation to the next day if I followed the trekking group that she organized. It was a 1N/2D trekking in the valley of SAPA. Of course, I did it.

There was I with other fellow backpackers, Mathew, Vianey, Jessica and Greg guided by Zuong, a nice girl from the Black H’mong Tribe. We walked from 9 am to 5 pm passing through small muddy path and the beds of the rice fields. Often we fell down for it was so slippery and ended up having mud all over our body. We had fun on each other and couldn’t stop laughing. What a trip! The view itself was tremendous and sophisticated. As far as I could see lies the huge (never seen like that before in Indonesia) paddy rice terraced fields. From time to time we passed the ethnic minorities like Black H’mong and Red Dao women. It felt different when you are being expose to a total different culture. I felt lucky.

Accomodation in the village

After 20 km walked, we stopped at one simple Hmong house to rest and sleep for a night. Nothing was special with our accommodation BUT Its simplicity. Experiencing how the ethnic minority live for only one night with a very basic facilities There are matrass lied close to each other at the second floor where people were gathered (cooking, eating, or just simply chatting) at the first floor. Togetherness continued still, the smell of food being cooked from the open kitchen, the warmth of the house owner, and a simple fireplace that they placed in the middle of the house was really inviting me to stay downstairs. We shared stories, we made jokes, and we laugh. Of course with the help of very bitter and strong rice wine helped us all to feel at ease.

The next day, we continue our trekking program towards the town. We passed several beautiful waterfalls and more paddy rice fields. Tiring and content at the same time, we finished the program in the afternoon and ended up in one nice bar drinking warm wine.

Everything was completely different in Town. The town was still hidden by its mist. I couldn’t see the valley as clouds perfectly covered them. But this place is indeed special.

And oh, my story of this trip has been published at detik. travel too, writing in Bahasa Indonesia was indeed easier for me..here is the link

Some more pictures: